Lovina

The north coast faces the Bali Sea, so the water is generally flat and the shore break minimal — good swimming conditions for children compared with the west-coast surf beaches. The sand is dark volcanic grit rather than white, and the beaches are narrow, but the calm is genuine.

The dolphin trips are the signature activity and worth being honest about: they leave before dawn, the boats are small, and on a busy morning a lot of boats chase the same pod. Children who cope with an early start and a bumpy hour usually love it; those prone to seasickness will not. Operators vary in how closely they pursue the animals, which is worth asking about.

Lovina is three hours or more from the airport over the mountain roads, which is the main reason to plan a few nights rather than a day. Nearby are hot springs, waterfalls and a Buddhist monastery, all of which break up a stay. Facilities are modest and options for young children are limited outside the hotels.